Surfing

Today we woke up at 7 so we could get ready for surf lessons.  We had to leave at 7:40 to get to Gisborne, which is a hour away.  When we got there it just opened and she said they tried to call to confirm the time.  If we were in the U.S.A. they probably would have sent us home but they are nice here and called Euan and he got us set up.  We got wetsuits and boards and headed out to the beach.  We went over safety and he told us how to find riptides so we do not get caught in one.  The very first time I got up for 2 seconds on my feet then wiped out.  Falling of the board is the worst because you get dragged under by the wave and you have to wait until it passes to get up.  I tried over and over and just could only get up on my knees.  I finally got tired of getting punded by the waves but one wave came and I went under and the board got ramed into my neck.  I had to get out for a minute to get my bearings again and went back out determined.  Then I finally got a wave and it is amazing to finally ride it.  The waves are powerful and it just pushes you along.  I just rode it and looked at the water.  Surfing is the hardest thing I have ever done.  We had to go back to the surf shop to pay for the lessons and I got a Rip Curl watch.  We were really tired after the lesson so went to town and ate at Two Rivers.  They had really good food.   Then we headed back to are house in the mountains.  Then we ate pizza for dinner and that is all we did that was interesting.  By the way the waves are much bigger than they look.